Lake Ashi fills the old crater of Hakone, a long, narrow stretch of blue-grey water surrounded by wooded hills, and the viewpoint here gives the postcard version: the lake in front, the ridges behind, and, on the right day, the white cone of Mount Fuji rising over the far shore. The lake is about 723 metres above sea level, cold and clear, and it freezes at the edges only in very hard winters. Sightseeing boats shaped like pirate ships cross it from end to end, which seems silly until you are standing on the shore watching one cross a pool of morning mist.
On the west shore, a red torii gate stands in the water in front of Hakone Shrine, one of the most photographed sights in Japan. The shrine itself is up in the trees, along a quiet path, and dates back to the eighth century according to tradition. The old Tokaido road runs beside the lake here through a long avenue of cedar trees, planted in the early seventeenth century to shade travellers, and some of the trunks are huge and moss-covered. Walking along it for ten minutes is a good way to forget the traffic.
Riding here is more about the setting than the road. The lakeside route is busy and slow, with coaches, taxis and cars looking for parking, and speed limits are low. Early on a weekday, or late in the afternoon, it is quieter. Take time for a stop at one of the cafes by the water, and enjoy the view. Fuji is clearest in winter and early spring, when the air is cold and dry, and in the early morning before clouds build. In summer, haze and cloud often hide it completely, and you may only see the base.
Hakone town, three kilometres away, has about thirteen thousand people and can supply fuel, food and rooms, and Yugawara down the coast has more. There are public toilets and vending machines at the lakeside, and a dozen small shops selling local wooden marquetry, a craft for which Hakone is known. Parking for motorbikes is usually free or cheap, but in peak season it can be hard to find a space. Wear layers, because a cold wind often blows off the water.