Lake Ashi fills the caldera of the old Hakone volcano, at 720 metres, and it is one of the most visited places in Japan, partly because of the view. On a clear morning, particularly in winter, the cone of Mount Fuji rises above the water in perfect symmetry, and the red torii gate of Hakone Shrine stands in the lake in the foreground.
Hakone has been a travellers' stop for centuries. In the Edo period, the Tokaido, the great road between Edo and Kyoto, crossed the mountains here, and the shogun kept a checkpoint on the shore of the lake to control the passage of weapons and women. The checkpoint has been reconstructed, and a stretch of the old road, lined with huge cedars planted in the seventeenth century, still runs beside the lake. Pirate-style tourist boats cross the water, and the sulphurous steam of Owakudani, the volcanic valley above, drifts in the breeze.
The ride up to the lake is the thing. The roads climb from the coast in a series of tight bends, with hairpins, tunnels and views, and the road around the lake itself is a smooth, winding ribbon. This is a famous place for riders, and on fine weekends the roads are packed with motorbikes, cars and tour buses, so a weekday or an early start is wise. The weather can change in minutes, with fog and rain rolling in from the sea, and in winter ice can form on the upper roads. A few of the scenic roads are toll roads.
Hakone has more than thirteen thousand people, with fuel, restaurants and souvenir shops, and hot-spring baths, onsen, are everywhere. After a day in the saddle, there is nothing better than a hot soak with a view of the mountains. The best time for views of Fuji is early on a cold, clear morning in winter, but spring and autumn are lovely, with cherry blossoms and red maples. The summer is hazy, and the rainy season in June brings hydrangeas but little view.