Two blue lagoons lie at about 4,200 metres on the altiplano south of San Pedro de Atacama, and they look unreal. Laguna Miscanti and its smaller neighbour Laguna Miñiques sit at the foot of the volcanoes of the same names, with Cerro Miscanti rising above 5,600 metres to the west, and the water is a hard, cold blue against the tawny grass and bare rock. Flamingos feed in the shallows, vicuñas graze nearby, and the wind combs the surface into ripples. It is a protected reserve, and the staff at the entrance keep an eye on how close visitors get to the shore.
The road to get here is the main attraction for many riders. From San Pedro you climb the long valley toward Socaire, passing through a landscape of dry riverbeds and ancient volcanic flows, and the altitude increases steadily. It is mostly paved, but the sections near the lagoons can be gravelly, and the temperature falls by many degrees as you gain height. The air is thin, and a bike can feel noticeably flat on the climbs, so treat the engine with some mercy. The wind is persistent and often strong, especially in the afternoon.
Altitude demands respect. A lot of travellers arrive from sea level and push straight up to over four thousand metres, which is a recipe for headaches, nausea and poor judgement. Spend a couple of days in San Pedro first, drink plenty of water, and ride slowly. Sun protection matters, because at this height the ultraviolet radiation is intense even on a cold day, and a cheerful bright morning can burn your face before you notice.
Fill the tank, carry a spare can if you can, and take food and water. Socaire, a small farming village along the route, has terraced fields watered by ancient channels and a little church worth a glance, but services are basic. In winter, snow and ice can close sections or make them treacherous, so check conditions before you leave town.
Come in the morning, when the water is calmer and the light on the volcanoes is crisp. By afternoon the wind has a mind of its own.