Ojo de Liebre, which means hare's eye, is a huge shallow lagoon on the Pacific side of Baja California, and every winter it receives the largest gathering of grey whales on earth. The animals travel about ten thousand kilometres from the Bering and Chukchi seas, one of the longest migrations of any mammal, to give birth in warm, sheltered water. Calves are born between January and March, and in the lagoon, mothers teach them to swim and surface.
The lagoon was once called Scammon's Lagoon after the whaling captain Charles Scammon, who found it in 1857 and slaughtered hundreds of whales over the following years, nearly wiping out the species. Protection came in the twentieth century, and the population recovered, and today grey whales are a conservation success story. Local families, many of whom came as salt workers, now run boats and camps from a landing near the shore, taking small groups out on the water.
A trip out in a small panga is quietly astonishing. Whales surface beside you, blow clouds of mist, spy-hop, lifting their heads straight up to look around, and sometimes pass under the boat. Dolphins, pelicans and ospreys add to the show. The wind off the sea is chilly, so dress warm and windproof, and bring a hat and sun protection. Rules limit boats' distance and time, and the guides know when to stay back.
The dirt road from Highway 1 to the lagoon is about twenty kilometres, graded but washboarded, and sandy in places, so go slowly on a road bike or leave it and join a tour. Guerrero Negro has fuel, motels and restaurants, and is the base for most visitors. Season runs from December to April. Book a boat in advance during holiday weekends, bring cash, and plan to be on the water in the morning when the sea is calm.