Laguna Amarga is the entrance to Torres del Paine, and the first view of the park's famous towers makes the whole long journey seem worth it. The lagoon itself is a shallow, brackish lake of milky green water on the open steppe, ringed by low hills, and behind it rise the granite spires of the Paine massif, three vertical towers of rock that seem to belong in another country. The name means bitter lake, from the salty water.
The park is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and in this corner of it the wildlife is easy to spot. Guanacos, the wild relatives of the llama, graze beside the road with a calm indifference to vehicles, and rheas and foxes appear in the grass. Condors are frequent visitors, circling the cliffs at midday. The Paine river runs through a lovely valley beside the entrance, and the wind sweeps across it constantly.
There is a ranger station at the entrance where visitors register and pay the park fee, and this is where the day's ride ends. From here, trails lead into the mountains toward the base of the towers, and a road continues on to Lake Pehoé and the Grey glacier area. The track beyond the entrance is mostly gravel, and the surface can be rough with washboard and loose stones, so ride carefully and give yourself plenty of time.
Fuel is one thing you should plan for in advance. There is no station at the entrance, and the nearest reliable place to fill the tank is Puerto Natales, around two hours' ride to the south. Carrying a little extra in a safe container is common practice, and it pays to start any day in the park with a full tank. A small shop and a lodge near the entrance may offer food and drink, but supplies are limited.
The best time to visit is from November to March, in the long southern summer, but the weather is always unpredictable. Cold wind, sudden rain and bright sun can all arrive within an hour, so dress in layers and bring good waterproofs. Early in the morning, with the light low and the wind often at its calmest, the towers glow orange, and it is easily one of the most memorable sights in South America.