The Lagos de Covadonga are two glacial lakes, Enol and Ercina, set in a high pasture of the Picos de Europa, and the road that climbs to them is one of the great climbs of Spain. The AS-262 rises from the sanctuary of Covadonga through beech forest and open meadow, switching back along a narrow track to reach the lakes at about 1,100 metres. Cyclists know it as a legendary finish of the Vuelta a España, and on a summer day you will share the road with a procession of pedallers in lycra and cowbells.
Covadonga is the birthplace of Spain's Reconquista. According to tradition, a small Christian force led by Pelayo defeated a Muslim army in these mountains around 722, an event that is seen as the start of the long campaign to recover the peninsula. A cave in the cliff holds a shrine to the Virgin, and the basilica and gardens below are the focus of pilgrimage. The Picos de Europa national park, created in 1918 and one of the oldest in Spain, takes in the whole massif, a limestone range of peaks, gorges and caves, and it is rich in wildlife, from chamois and wolves to bearded vultures.
The road is narrow, steep and tight, with fast hairpins and a lot of cows, which wander the road without hurry. Mist can drop in an instant, and rain is frequent, as the Atlantic air runs into the mountains. In peak season, from Easter week and from July to September, private vehicles may be restricted, with shuttle buses running from lower parking areas, so check the park's rules ahead of time. Early morning is the best moment, before the buses.
Cangas de Onís, fourteen kilometres away, has fuel, a Roman bridge and plenty of cafés, and the region is known for its blue cheeses, Cabrales especially, and cider poured from a height. There are no services at the lakes except a small bar and a refuge. Bring a waterproof, a warm layer and a camera.