The Seven Lakes Route, the Ruta de los Siete Lagos, is the great drive of Argentine Patagonia, and Lago Machónico is one of its small, quiet jewels. The road, a section of Route 40, runs for about a hundred kilometres between San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura, passing seven lakes, big and small, through thick forest, with snow-covered peaks showing in the gaps. Machónico is a modest lake, tucked among trees, with a dark blue surface and a rim of reeds, and it seems to belong to the forest rather than to the road.
The forest here is the southern beech, with lenga, coihue and ñire, and in places the Patagonian cypress. In autumn, the lenga turns red and gold, which makes the route especially beautiful in April and May. The undergrowth includes the caña colihue, a type of bamboo, and the red flowers of the notro, a shrub that blooms in spring. Condors and ducks are common, and the lakes hold trout, brought in from North America in the early twentieth century and now beloved by anglers. The air smells of damp earth, bark and pine resin.
Much of this land is protected within Lanín and Nahuel Huapi National Parks, and the great cone of Lanín volcano, 3,776 metres high, dominates the northern horizon. The Mapuche people have lived here for centuries, and the names of the lakes and mountains are theirs. The road itself was paved in recent decades, so the whole route is now smooth tarmac, with easy curves and a few steep sections. Rain, fog and sudden cold are all possible, and ice can form in the morning in winter, so check conditions. In high summer, the route is busy with tourists, with slow-moving cars and buses, so an early start is wise.
Nature is the point, and the stops are many. There are viewpoints, waterfalls and small beaches, where you can paddle in water that is cold even in January. Picnic tables stand beside several lakes, and a few cabins serve hot drinks and snacks. Do not expect big services, because this is a protected area.
San Martín de los Andes, twenty-two kilometres from here, is the nearest town with fuel, restaurants and supplies, and it is a pleasant lakeside resort. Villa La Angostura, at the other end, also has fuel. Fill up before setting off, and carry a layer for the wind.