Lago Escondido, the Hidden Lake, lives up to its name, tucked away in the forest on the Seven Lakes Route near Villa La Angostura, and glimpsed through the trees on the road. The water is a deep, clear blue-green, and the shores are thick with beech and cypress, with mountain slopes climbing steeply from the far bank. A small lookout allows a view across the lake, and on calm mornings the surface mirrors the forest.
The district has a strong character. Villa La Angostura sits on the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi, a vast glacial lake that stretches toward Bariloche, and its name, the Village of the Narrow Place, refers to the thin neck of land that links it to the Quetrihué peninsula. On that peninsula stands the Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes, a forest of arrayán trees, with cinnamon-coloured bark that is cool and smooth to the touch, and some of the trees are hundreds of years old. A short river, the Correntoso, links the lake of that name to Nahuel Huapi, and locals claim it as one of the shortest rivers in the world.
In June 2011, the eruption of the Puyehue-Cordón Caulle volcano, across the border in Chile, covered the region in ash, and for a while, the area looked like another planet. The vegetation has recovered, but traces of the eruption linger, and the grey dust can still be found in places, a reminder that the Andes are alive. The land here is still being shaped by fire and ice.
For riding, the stretch from Villa La Angostura, along the Seven Lakes Route, is a delight, with a good surface, long bends, forest and lake views, and little traffic outside the holiday seasons. The road does have steep stretches and sudden changes in the weather, with rain, fog and cold winds. Wildlife, including deer, foxes and cattle, can wander onto the road. In winter, snow and ice may close the road, and chains may be needed.
Villa La Angostura, twenty-seven kilometres away, has fuel, restaurants and a gentle, alpine feel, with chocolate shops and cafes. Bariloche, about eighty kilometres away, is the larger city. Fill up before leaving, and carry some food and warm clothing.