The Laboe naval memorial is the tallest thing on this coast by a long way, a slim brick tower, seventy-two metres high, that rises from a bluff at the mouth of Kiel Fjord and can be seen from far out at sea. It was built between 1927 and 1936 to commemorate German sailors who died in the First World War, and later its meaning was widened to remember seafarers of all nations who lost their lives at sea, a gesture that still stirs debate. You can climb the tower, or take a lift, for a view over the whole fjord, where ferries, warships and sailing yachts cross the water in a constant parade.
Beside the memorial, on dry land, lies a Second World War submarine, U-995, now a museum. It is cramped, cold and surprisingly small inside, and walking through it gives you a very direct feel for what the crews endured. Both attractions sit on a bluff above the beach, and the walk down to the water takes a few minutes.
Laboe itself is a small seaside town of about five thousand, with a harbour, a promenade, and shops selling smoked fish and ice cream. The beach is a pleasant stretch of sand, popular with families in summer, and the air smells of salt and seaweed. In the evening the sun sets over the fjord, and the lights of Kiel glimmer in the distance.
The ride to get here from Kiel runs along the eastern shore of the fjord, through quiet villages such as Heikendorf, with views of the water through the trees. The road is gentle and winding, with the odd short rise, and in summer weekend traffic can be heavy, with cyclists and families heading for the beach. An early morning start gives you the best light, and a quiet road. Fuel is available in Laboe and Heikendorf, and Kiel has everything. If you start here, take a slow breakfast in the harbour first, and leave the climb until you are warm.