The shore of Lake Neuchâtel, on the Swiss side, is lined with vineyards, and at the foot of them sits a thin strip of beach and reeds called La Saunerie, near the village of Auvernier. Four or five thousand years ago people lived here in houses raised on piles over the shallows, fishing, hunting, farming and keeping cattle, and the waterlogged mud preserved the timbers, tools, textiles, seeds and even bread that most archaeological sites would have lost. Together with more than a hundred similar places around the Alps, La Saunerie is part of the UNESCO listing of Prehistoric Pile Dwellings, and the underwater site is not meant to be visited, only protected, though the shore and the museum nearby tell the story.
Today the lake is a postcard of a different kind. The water is calm and green, the Jura mountains lie behind, and on a clear day the Alps are visible across the water, from the Bernese Oberland to Mont Blanc. Auvernier itself is a winegrowers' village of stone houses, fountains and cellars, and it produces the white Neuchâtel Chasselas, light, dry and often a little prickly with carbon dioxide, along with the rosé called Oeil-de-Perdrix, partridge-eye, made from Pinot Noir. Tasting rooms open to the public at weekends, and a cheese fondue in autumn is considered a duty.
The riding is delicate and rewarding. The lakeside road from Neuchâtel toward Boudry and the vineyard lanes above are smooth, narrow and full of curves, with stone walls on either side, while higher up the Chaumont road climbs through forest to a ridge with views over the lake. The Val-de-Travers and the Creux du Van, a great natural amphitheatre, lie a short ride away to the west. Traffic can be heavy at commuter hours, speed cameras are plentiful, and Swiss limits are enforced with real severity. Spring blossom and autumn harvest are the best moments, and in winter the lake often wears a layer of fog.
Auvernier is small, but Peseux, about two kilometres away, has fuel, bakeries and supermarkets, and Neuchâtel is a short ride to the east. Parking along the shore is limited, so arrive early, particularly on summer weekends when swimmers fill the beaches. Bring some Swiss francs for cellar tastings and the village cafés, which do not always accept cards. A vignette is required for the motorways, though you will not need them for this ride.