La Quiaca is the last town in Argentina, and at about 3,400 metres above sea level it feels like it. The Puna plateau here is high, cold and windswept, with a sky of hard blue and a landscape of tawny grass and bare hills, and the border with Bolivia runs along a dry riverbed on the edge of town. A bridge crosses to Villazón, a bustling Bolivian town just two kilometres away. Argentine National Route 40, the long road that runs the length of the country along the Andes for more than five thousand kilometres, ends here, and a sign at the border marks the northern terminus.
The country is the Altiplano, home to llamas, vicuñas and quinoa farmers, with adobe houses, shawl-wearing women and the smell of wood smoke. Nearby, the Laguna de los Pozuelos draws flocks of flamingos, and to the south, the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO-listed valley, opens up into colourful rock formations and old villages. In winter, nights drop well below freezing, and daytime sun is strong with thin air. Visitors can feel altitude sickness, locally called soroche, and coca-leaf tea is the traditional remedy.
For riders, La Quiaca is the start of one of the great motorcycle journeys. Heading south on Route 9 and 40, the road crosses the high plateau through Abra Pampa and Tres Cruces and then descends into the Quebrada, through villages with white churches and adobe walls, toward Salta and Cafayate. The surface can be smooth asphalt or rough gravel, depending on the section, and wind on the plateau is fierce. Bikes lose power in the thin air, so jets and fuel mixtures may need attention. Weather can change quickly, and ice or snow is possible in winter. The best months are spring and autumn.
Practically, La Quiaca has fuel stations, though supplies can be limited at times, and it is wise to fill up whenever you can. The town has simple hotels, restaurants serving empanadas, llama stew and hot soup, and small shops. Take layers, sun protection and plenty of water, and acclimatise gently before riding hard. Border formalities for Bolivia involve passports, vehicle documents and sometimes queues, so plan time for crossings.