La Molina is the old ski village at the Catalan end of the Cerdanya, a high, sunny valley that the Pyrenees split between Spain and France. At roughly 1,400 metres, it is one of the early ski stations in Spain, with lifts that go back to the middle of the twentieth century, and today the slopes above it reach beyond 2,500 metres.
The Cerdanya is an odd piece of geography. It is a broad glacial valley, wide and flat in the middle, with snowy peaks all round, and the border runs through it in a way that leaves Llívia, a Spanish town, entirely surrounded by France. The sun shines here for most of the year, and the air is thin and bright. In summer, the ski slopes turn into walking terrain, with wildflowers and marmots, and in autumn, the larch and beech woods turn gold.
For riders, a night in La Molina means the road is on your doorstep. The Collada de Toses, at about 1,800 metres, is the pass on the N-152 that climbs from Ripoll through woods and open pasture, with wide bends and long views. It is well surfaced and popular with riders, and the descent into Cerdanya is a favourite. Ice and snow can close or restrict the road from late autumn to spring, so check before you go. Fog is common in the valleys, and the mountain air is cold even in summer, especially after dark. The Cadí tunnel to the south and the roads into France offer more variety.
Practically, La Molina has hotels and apartments, many shut outside the ski and summer seasons, so book ahead. Fuel is in Puigcerdà, which has nearly nine thousand people and several stations, and in Alp, below La Molina. Restaurants serve mountain food, such as stews, grilled meat and local cheese, and a hot chocolate after a cold ride is a good idea. Carry warm clothes, even in July, and put gloves in the top box.