Hellín sits on a ridge between the plains of La Mancha and the dry valleys of Murcia, and the countryside around La Higuera is a lesson in how many shades of ochre a landscape can have. The region is cut by gorges and low sierras of red and yellow rock, with almond trees, esparto grass and pale scrub. The shelters of this part of Albacete, particularly those near Minateda, are among the most important sites of Levantine rock art in Spain, and they form part of the Mediterranean-arc ensemble UNESCO listed in 1998.
Hellín is a town of around thirty thousand, with all the services you need. It is also known for its Holy Week drumming, when thousands of people beat drums through the night, a tradition shared with other towns in the region and recognised by UNESCO. The old town has a pleasant Baroque feel, and the market is a good place to buy bread and oil. Take fuel here, as the settlements to the north and south are small, and the nearest alternative is Tobarra, a smaller town to the east.
The riding is dry and open. Roads cross wide plains and climb gentle passes, with wind on the exposed stretches and sun-bleached tarmac that can be slippery after the first autumn rain. It is a landscape of long lines and small villages, with the occasional ruined farmhouse in a field. In summer, the heat is serious, and a morning ride is the sensible choice. In late autumn and spring, the colours soften and the light on the hills becomes golden.
The Segura river runs a short way to the south, where it has cut deep and dramatic canyons through the limestone, such as the Almadenes gorge near Cieza. A detour there gives you a taste of how green the river valleys can be against the pale hills. Keep an eye out for birds of prey over the cliffs. Bring more water than you think you need.