Culla sits on a narrow rocky crest in the Alt Maestrat, the inland highlands of Castellón, its houses wrapped around the remains of a castle that once controlled a large swathe of these mountains. The Knights Templar held it in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and the village still has the feel of a lookout, with views in every direction over terraced slopes, stone walls and empty ridges. La Covassa, just below the village, is one of the many rock shelters in this part of Valencia that hold prehistoric paintings, part of the Mediterranean rock art group that UNESCO protects across eastern Spain.
The roads in this part of the Maestrat are some of the most rewarding in the region for anyone who likes a constant stream of corners. From Benassal or Vilar de Canes the road to Culla climbs along hillsides in a long sequence of curves, mostly well surfaced but narrow and sometimes bordered by drystone walls with no margin for error. The traffic is light enough that you can settle into a rhythm, though agricultural vehicles and the occasional flock of sheep keep you honest. The light is clear and the air smells of thyme and dry earth.
It is worth knowing that the famous rock art of the Valltorta gorge, near Tírig and Coves de Vinromà, lies not far to the north east, with a museum explaining the paintings and guided visits to the shelters. Combining both makes a good day. Benassal, five kilometres from Culla, is known for its mineral spring water from the Font d'en Segures, bottled and sold well beyond the region.
Practical matters need attention up here. These are small villages, many with fewer than a thousand people, and fuel is scarce. L'Alcora, a ceramics town about thirty kilometres away, is the nearest larger place, and Vilafranca or Albocàsser can also be useful depending on your direction. Food is simple but good, with lamb, hearty stews and local cheeses. The Maestrat sits high and catches the weather from both the sea and the interior, so fog and cool winds are common, and winter can bring snow to the ridges. Above Culla, the massif of Penyagolosa rises to the west, the highest peak in the province and a fine destination for a separate ride.