Down in Colombia's far south, close to the border with Ecuador, the Andes spread into a high, rumpled plateau of small fields stitched together by hedges, with deep canyons cut into it by rivers rushing towards the Pacific and the Amazon. La Cofradía lies here in the department of Nariño, between Gualmatán and Contadero, at the height of the old Inca road network, the Qhapaq Ñan, which reached this far north as the empire's frontier pushed into what is now Colombia. A few stretches of the road around here are part of the Qhapaq Ñan World Heritage site.
At around three thousand metres, the air is thin and cool, and the light is sharp. The landscape is a patchwork of potato fields, pastures and eucalyptus groves, with farmhouses and small villages scattered across the slopes. Cloud often sits on the ridges in the afternoon, and rain can come at any time of year. Mornings tend to be clearest, so get going early if you want the views.
The riding is challenging and rewarding. The Pan-American Highway runs from Pasto south to Ipiales and the border, a road with many curves, climbs and descents, but also heavy truck traffic and sections under repair. Off the main road, the routes through villages like Gualmatán and Contadero are narrow, steep and often unpaved, with tight bends and spectacular views into the Guáitara canyon. Watch for landslides after rain, animals on the road and local drivers overtaking in surprising places.
Just south, near Ipiales, the Sanctuary of Las Lajas is one of the most extraordinary churches in the world, a neo-Gothic basilica built on a bridge spanning the Guáitara canyon, with the river roaring below. It is a major pilgrimage site, and the setting alone is worth the detour. Nariño's people are proud of their indigenous heritage, and markets in the towns are full of colourful textiles, potatoes of many varieties, and guinea pig, known as cuy, roasted whole on a spit.
Pupiales, about nine kilometres away, is the nearest town of any size with fuel and food. Ipiales, a larger border town, has more options. Make sure you have cash, as card payment is not always available, and dress warmly; the evenings at this altitude are cold, even near the equator.