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La Bollène-Vésubie food

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

Rally fans know the name Turini the way footballers know Wembley, and La Bollène-Vésubie is the village at the foot of that legend. It sits on a spur above the Vésubie, a small cluster of stone houses in the lower reaches of the Mercantour foothills, with the road to the Col de Turini leaving the valley right beside it. The Monte-Carlo Rally used to send its cars up here in the dark, and the night stage over the Turini, with fans lighting fires along the hairpins, became one of motorsport's great spectacles.

For a rider the connection is more than trivia. The climb that begins here is long, wooded and full of rhythm, with a hairpin every few hundred metres and the big larch and fir forest of Turini closing in higher up. The pass tops out at around sixteen hundred metres, so the temperature drops sharply, and in spring or after a cold night you can find slush and old snow in the shaded corners long after the coast is baking. The tarmac is generally good, though a little rough on the upper section, and cars with rally ambitions are a hazard on summer evenings.

As a food stop, be realistic. The village itself is tiny, and what you find will be a small bar or auberge with a short menu and limited hours, so check before relying on it. Lantosque and Roquebillière, a few kilometres down the valley, are larger and offer more choice, with bakeries, grocers and the sort of plain mountain cooking you expect here: ravioli with a meat or herb filling, daube, polenta, and a plate of the local cured meats. A coffee and something warm are the natural reward before the pass.

The Vésubie valley is one that bears scars. Storm Alex tore through it in October 2020, wrecking roads and bridges, and much has since been rebuilt, but it is worth checking local conditions before committing to the route, because repairs and temporary closures can still apply.

Fuel is the thing to watch. There is nothing you can count on in the village, and the nearest large town for supplies is Contes, a good twenty kilometres down the valley and out toward the coast, so arrive with a full tank and you will have all the range you need for the pass and the Roya valley beyond.

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