Gwangmyeong is a satellite city on the south-western edge of Seoul, a place of high-rise apartment blocks, shopping centres and a high-speed railway station, and it is the finish point for rides that have spent the day in the mountains of Gangwon Province or the lakes and forests north of the capital. Arriving here after Seoraksan, with its granite peaks and Buddhist temples, can feel like a sudden return to the modern world.
The city does have one genuine curiosity. The Gwangmyeong Cave is a former gold mine, worked from the early twentieth century until the 1970s, that has been transformed into a tourist attraction, with lighting displays, an underground aquarium, a wine cellar storing Korean wines and exhibitions about the mine's history. It is cool inside even on the hottest summer day, and it makes an unusual end to a ride.
Riding in Korea comes with an important rule: motorcycles are not allowed on the expressways, so all long-distance travel has to be done on national and local roads. This means longer journeys, but it also means you see more of the country. The roads to Seoraksan cross the mountains of Gangwon Province, with passes like the Hangyeryeong and the Misiryeong, winding through forests with fine views. The roads around Pocheon, north of Seoul, are quieter, passing lakes, forests and farmland.
Coming back into the Seoul metropolitan area is a challenge. The traffic is dense, the roads are complicated, and some major roads and bridges are closed to motorcycles. A good navigation app that knows the motorcycle restrictions is essential. Gwangmyeong itself has plenty of fuel, food and services, and Korean barbecue restaurants, where you grill your own meat at the table, are the classic way to celebrate the end of a long day. The shoulder seasons are best; summers are hot and humid, and winters are bitterly cold.