Silver made Kutná Hora. In the late thirteenth century rich veins were found in the hills here, and within a few decades this small town east of Prague had become one of the richest places in medieval Europe. The Bohemian kings minted their silver groschen here, in the building known as the Italian Court, and it was money from these mines that helped finance the reign of Wenceslas II and later Charles IV. The result is a town that has a cathedral's worth of ambition packed into a small hillside setting.
The great landmark is the church of St Barbara, begun in the late fourteenth century by the miners' guilds as a rival to the cathedral in Prague. Its roof is a marvel, a forest of ribs and pinnacles that rises over the town like the sails of a ship, and the interior has fine late Gothic vaulting. It was left unfinished for centuries and completed only much later, but the result is harmonious. The listing also includes the Cathedral of Our Lady at Sedlec, a short distance away, with a Baroque-Gothic interior by the architect Jan Santini Aichel, and nearby is the ossuary chapel, whose chandelier and decorations are made of human bones.
Riding to Kutná Hora from Prague is a pleasant and easy trip, mostly across rolling farmland and low hills, with moderate traffic and a good surface. The roads are not dramatic but they are enjoyable, with long views over fields and orchards, and small villages every few kilometres. The town itself is hilly, with cobbled streets in the centre, so go gently on a loaded bike and leave the machine at one of the car parks on the edge.
With over twenty thousand people, Kutná Hora has all the fuel, food and beds you could want. The restaurants around the old town serve classic Czech dishes, and you can finish with a coffee on one of the squares. Tourists come in large numbers, especially in summer, so arrive early or visit on a weekday.
The ride pairs the town with Průhonice and with the pilgrimage church of St John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora, another listed Baroque marvel, and together they show how rich this part of Bohemia was.