Kupres is one of those places where you notice the sky first. The town sits on a very high karst plain in western Bosnia, among the highest open farmland in the country, at roughly 1,100 metres. The plain is broad and almost treeless, ringed by gently rounded hills, and the wind moves across it unhindered. Locals say the winters are fierce, and the snow can lie for months. In summer the same plain is a bright carpet of grass and wildflowers, with cattle and sheep grazing and hay stacked in small cones.
History has not been gentle with this plateau. It saw a famous medieval gathering and then centuries of Ottoman rule. In 1941, fighting here during the Second World War left deep scars, and again in the 1990s the area was contested. Today it feels peaceful, a quiet farming district with a modest ski scene at nearby Veliko Polje, a small resort that opens when snow allows.
For riding, this is a rewarding stretch. The roads cross the plateau in long, clean lines, with fast, open bends and almost no hedges to block the view. Wind can be a real factor, especially from the north-east, so loosen your grip and lean into it. Between here and the towns on either side, such as Bugojno in one direction and the Livno basin in the other, the road drops and climbs through forest, with changing surfaces and occasional tight sections where trucks need room. Because the plateau is high, mornings stay cool well into summer, and a rain layer should stay near the top of the bag.
Kupres itself is small, so plan fuel in advance. Bugojno, about sixteen kilometres away and much larger, is the safe bet for filling up and a full meal. In Kupres you can rely on a bakery or a café for a break, and the pleasure is mainly the horizon. Stand beside the bike for a few minutes and listen to how quiet it is before you roll on.