Kuala Kangsar is the royal town of Perak, the seat of the sultan, and it carries its status lightly. The town sits on the Perak river, Malaysia's second longest, and about forty thousand people live here. The Ubudiah Mosque, with its golden onion dome and white minarets, is among the most beautiful in the country, built in the early twentieth century after the sultan vowed to build one if an elephant that was unable to walk recovered. The Istana Iskandariah, the palace, stands on a hill, and the Perak Royal Museum is housed in a wooden palace built without nails. It is a quiet, dignified place with tree-lined avenues.
Kuala Kangsar has a surprising place in the history of rubber. In 1877, the first rubber seedlings in Malaya were planted here, brought from Kew Gardens, and a descendant of the original trees still stands in the town. Rubber became the engine of the Malayan economy, and the plantations around still shape the landscape. The Malay College, a school modelled on English public schools, trained generations of the elite. The area is also known for a type of pottery, labu sayong, a gourd-shaped water jar.
For a rider, this is the start of the East-West Highway, which runs across the peninsula to the east coast. The road climbs steadily through rainforest, passing the Temenggor Lake and the Belum-Temengor forest complex, which is one of the oldest rainforests in the world. The highway is well surfaced, with long, gentle bends and a few tight sections, but trucks are slow on the grades and wildlife, including elephants, can appear. Mist and rain are common, and the road is quiet at night, so stay alert.
Fill the tank in Kuala Kangsar or Taiping, since the highway has long stretches with few stations. Local food is typical of the north: laksa Kuala Kangsar, a rice-noodle dish with fish gravy, is a local favourite, and the roadside stalls serve strong coffee. The best time to ride is the dry season, though rain can fall anytime. Take a rest in the town, and walk along the river at dusk before heading for the hills.