Ait Ben Haddou rises from a hillside above the Ounila river like a sandcastle built by a giant, with towers and walls the colour of toasted bread. It is a ksar, a fortified village of rammed earth, and it stood on the old caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech, where traders carried salt, gold and slaves over the Atlas. UNESCO listed it in 1987 as an outstanding example of southern Moroccan earthen architecture.
The buildings are made of pisé, earth and straw packed in wooden forms and then plastered, and they need constant care, because rain washes them away. Tall corner towers have geometric patterns in the mud brickwork, and a steep path climbs between houses to an old granary at the top, with views across the river and the palm groves. Only a handful of families still live inside the walls, while most have moved to the newer village across the river, where small guesthouses and cafes cater to visitors.
Film makers adore it. Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Game of Thrones are among the productions shot here or nearby, and the Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate service the industry. The river crossing is usually easy on foot, but after rain the stream can rise, and local boys will carry visitors over for a few coins or you can use the stepping stones. Early morning and late afternoon give the best light, and midday is hot and crowded.
Ouarzazate, twenty-seven kilometres away, is the nearest town of size and has fuel, banks and restaurants. The road from there is good, a gentle run across a stony plateau with the High Atlas snow visible in winter. Parking is available at the village edge. Try a tagine or a Berber omelette at a terrace overlooking the ksar, and consider staying the night, when the crowds leave and the walls glow orange then grey.