Krasnoyarsk is a proper city, a million people strong, spread along the Yenisei where the great river leaves the Sayan foothills and begins its journey north to the Arctic. Anton Chekhov, passing through in 1890, described it as the most beautiful city in Siberia, and while locals love quoting that, you can see what he meant when you ride along the embankment on a clear evening. Solnechny, a suburb, lies a few kilometres away, and the Trans-Siberian crosses the river on a long bridge in the city centre.
As a stop it is excellent. There is fuel everywhere, mechanics, bike shops, restaurants and hotels, and the road network is solid, so this is the place to sort out any problems. Riding into the city from the west is a slog through suburban traffic, but the Yenisei itself is worth the effort. The ride toward Divnogorsk goes along the river, with hills and forest on both sides, and the road is one of the more enjoyable around the city: long bends, decent surface and views down to the water. Early morning or weekdays are best, since weekends bring heavy traffic.
The city's history begins in 1628, when Cossacks built a wooden fort here, and it later became a trading town on the road to the east. The Soviet period brought heavy industry, aluminium and, during the Second World War, evacuated factories, and the city grew rapidly. Nearby, the Krasnoyarsk hydroelectric dam, finished in the early 1970s, holds back a huge reservoir and has an odd effect: the river below the dam stays open in winter, with steam rising from the water in the frost. A ship lift beside the dam is a notable piece of engineering.
The nature around Krasnoyarsk is the best part. Just upriver lies the Stolby nature reserve, a forested area dotted with granite pillars that climbers have scaled since the nineteenth century and that locals treat as a near-sacred playground. Pine and birch forest covers the hills, and on warm days the smell of resin mixes with river air. Bears, elk and sable live in the reserve, though you will not meet them on the road.
The city has plenty of places to eat, and it is easy to find a quiet corner by the water. Fill the tank here and leave early to enjoy the road toward Divnogorsk.