Krasnaya Polyana means Red Meadow, and before 2014 it was a quiet mountain village in the upper valley of the Mzymta River, settled in the late nineteenth century by Greeks and Estonians after the expulsion of the Circassians who had lived here before. The site has a darker history too: in 1864, Russian forces celebrated the end of the long Caucasian War at a place nearby called Kbaade, and for Circassians it remains a place of mourning. Then came the Winter Olympics, and the village was transformed almost overnight into a sprawling resort.
Today Krasnaya Polyana is the gateway to the mountain cluster of the Sochi Olympics, with ski resorts, hotels, apartment blocks, restaurants and shops spreading along the valley. The surrounding mountains are spectacular, with steep forested slopes, rocky peaks and snowfields lingering well into summer. In the warmer months, gondolas carry hikers and mountain bikers up to high meadows and viewpoints, and the forests around the village are full of waterfalls, walking trails and wild flowers.
The ride from Adler and the coast follows the Mzymta valley, on a modern road built for the Olympics, with tunnels, bridges and long, sweeping bends. The old road, narrower and more winding, still runs alongside in places, and is more fun if you can find it. The surface is generally excellent, but traffic can be heavy, especially at weekends and during holidays. Set off before nine and you will have the valley mostly to yourself. Watch for buses, taxis and impatient drivers.
Krasnaya Polyana has all the services a rider needs: fuel, shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels of every kind. The village has some good places to eat, from simple Caucasian grills to more upscale restaurants. Try khachapuri, the cheese-filled bread popular across the Caucasus, or grilled trout from the mountain rivers. Take a stroll along the river, look up at the peaks, and remember that, behind the shiny resort, there is a much older and more complex story in these mountains.