Krabi is the sort of place that makes visitors reach for superlatives and then settle for pointing. Limestone karst rises straight out of the mangrove and the sea, with sheer grey cliffs wrapped in jungle and topped with pinnacles, and the town sits on the Krabi river as it widens into a muddy estuary. Out in the bay, long-tail boats run to the islands and the beaches around Ao Nang, which has turned into a lively resort strip about twelve kilometres west. The town itself, with about thirty thousand people, has a riverfront promenade and a busy night market where the day's catch ends up on the grill.
Riding out of Krabi on a bike is a pleasure, though not for corners. The roads are mostly good tarmac, with a few long straights between oil-palm plantations and rubber trees, and then sudden short climbs where the road cuts around the karst. The heat and humidity are constant, and in the rainy season, from May to October, downpours arrive fast and turn the road slippery. Dry season, from November to April, is the better window, with cooler mornings and clearer views.
Thai traffic takes some getting used to. Motorbikes outnumber cars, overtaking happens on both sides, and dogs wander across the road without much concern. Keep your speed modest, look well ahead at junctions, and wear a helmet, because police do check and it is the law. Fuel is easy to find on the main roads and in town, usually at stations with a small shop selling cold drinks and snacks.
Food is the highlight. Southern Thai cooking is spicier than the central version, with plenty of coconut milk, turmeric, and fresh seafood grilled over charcoal, and the night markets serve it at prices that make hotel breakfasts look silly. Try a bowl of curry with rice noodles for breakfast like the locals, then fill up on fresh fruit. The day's ride from here heads north and east across the peninsula, through rubber country and low hills, toward Nakhon Si Thammarat.