Korčula old town stands on a small peninsula that sticks out into the channel between the island and the mainland's Pelješac, and from the sea it looks like a fortress made of honey-coloured stone: a ring of walls, towers and a cathedral with a belltower on the top of a rise. The streets inside are laid out in a herringbone pattern, with the main street along the ridge and the side lanes angled to break the force of the wind and let in the breeze, a clever piece of medieval planning that is still obvious on a map.
The town claims to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, and a house said to be his stands near the cathedral, though historians disagree and Venice has its own claims. Whatever the truth, the story brings a steady flow of visitors. Another local tradition is the Moreška, a sword dance depicting a battle between Moors and Christians, which is performed in summer in the town and has a long history on the island. The island was also a centre of shipbuilding and stonecutting, and the quality of the stone shows in every doorway.
For riders, Korčula is reached by ferry, either from Orebić on the Pelješac peninsula, a short crossing, or on longer routes from Split. The island is long and narrow, about forty-six kilometres, with a spine of low hills covered in pine and scrub, and the roads along it are gentle, well-surfaced and quiet outside July and August. The views over the channel and the vineyards are very fine, and the island's white wines, Pošip and Grk, are worth tasting at the small cellars along the way.
Fuel on the island is limited, so fill up on the mainland before boarding. In summer ferries to the island can have long queues, so arrive early or book. The old town itself is largely pedestrian, with steps and polished stone that can be slippery, so it is best to leave the bike outside the walls.
May, June and September are the best months, with warm sea and calm roads.