Koper is Slovenia's seaport, a small walled town on a peninsula in the north of the Adriatic, and it spent centuries as a Venetian city. The Venetians called it Capodistria, and ruled it from the late thirteenth century until 1797, and the old centre shows it clearly. Narrow stone lanes lead to the main square, where the Praetorian Palace, a pink-and-white Gothic and Renaissance building, stands beside the Loggia and the cathedral. The bell tower can be climbed for a view over the red roofs to the bay. A short coast of only forty-six kilometres is all that Slovenia has, and it is made the most of.
The port beside the town is a working one, with ships, cranes and cars waiting for export, and it connects Central Europe with the Mediterranean. For riders, the coast is a pleasant meeting of land and sea, with salt pans at Secovlje, the pretty seaside town of Piran a few kilometres west, and the Istrian hills inland, covered with olive groves and vineyards. Local olive oil is excellent, and the wine of the region, particularly the dark red Refosk and white Malvasia, is worth trying. Seafood is fresh and served simply.
The ride toward Snežnik leads you inland, up onto the Karst plateau and into the forests of Notranjska. The road climbs from the coast in a series of bends, with views back to the sea, and soon the landscape changes to a high, rocky plateau of limestone, scrub, and pine, with stone walls and small villages. In winter, the bora, a cold, strong wind from the northeast, can blow with great force and close roads to light vehicles. Check the forecast. Beyond the Karst, tall beech and fir forests clothe the mountain of Snežnik, which holds a fine castle in the woods and is home to bears and lynx.
Fuel is available in Koper and in Ankaran, three kilometres away, and the prices are usually better than in neighbouring Italy. Restaurants are scattered along the coast, serving fish, pasta and prosciutto. In summer, the town is busy and parking is tight, so arrive early. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for riding the Karst. Take warm layers, since the plateau is much cooler than the coast.