Koné is where New Caledonia stops looking like a holiday brochure and starts looking like a working island. The town sits on the west coast of the Grande Terre, about halfway up, in a dry plain of savanna and cattle ranches, and it has been the administrative centre of the Northern Province since the province was created in the 1980s.
The landscape is surprising. The west coast is drier than the east, with open grassland dotted with niaouli trees, whose pale papery bark peels in layers, and herds of cattle that belong to the descendants of European stockmen, the Caldoches, who settled here in the nineteenth century. Nearby, the huge Koniambo massif is the site of a nickel smelter, a reminder that the island's wealth comes from the red earth. Along the coast, mangrove swamps line the lagoon, and near Voh, a clearing in the mangroves forms a perfect heart shape that became famous in an aerial photograph.
The main road, the RT1, runs the length of the west coast, and it is a good ride. The surface is generally smooth, the bends are gentle, and the views alternate between the lagoon and the mountains. In the dry season, from about May to November, the weather is warm and bright, and the roads are quiet. From January to March, cyclones can bring heavy rain and flooding, and roads may be cut at river crossings. Drive on the right, watch for cattle on the road, and beware of the midday heat.
Fuel is available in Koné, a town of about four and a half thousand, and in Pouembout and Voh nearby. Small restaurants serve fresh fish, venison and the island's blend of French and Pacific cooking, and the local bakeries open early, with excellent baguettes. Cash in Pacific francs is useful, as cards are not accepted everywhere. The Kanak culture of the island is strong here, so ask before visiting tribal land and treat the customs of the tribes with respect.