Kon Tum is a small, quiet city in the Central Highlands of Vietnam, at about five hundred metres above sea level, where the Dak Bla River winds through a plateau of red earth, coffee, rubber and pepper. It is a place where the Vietnamese world meets the world of the highland peoples, the Bahnar, Sedang and Jarai among them, whose villages, longhouses and traditions still survive in the surrounding hills. The city is often overlooked in favour of busier places, which is part of its appeal.
The best-known landmark is the wooden church, built in the early twentieth century by French missionaries, a large timber building in a style that blends European and highland tradition, with a high roof and carved decoration inspired by the communal houses of the Bahnar people. It is still used for services, and the interior is cool, dark and handsome. Beside it, a small orphanage and a museum have been run by the church for many years. Around the outskirts, tall, steep-roofed communal houses stand in the minority villages, the centre of village life, and the carved beams and thatch are worth a visit.
This is also a landscape of war and memory. The Ho Chi Minh Road, the supply route that ran through the mountains along the border during the Vietnam War, passes through the highlands, and the modern highway follows part of it. North of Kon Tum, the area around Dak To saw some of the fiercest fighting of the conflict. Today the road is a peaceful, scenic route through forest, tea and coffee, with views of the Truong Son mountains in the distance. The ride from Phong Nha is long and varied, and arriving in Kon Tum after a day among hills and rubber trees is a good moment.
Fuel is easy, with a city of nearly fifty thousand people, and food is cheap and good, with local dishes such as grilled meat, bamboo shoots and rice wine. Coffee is a speciality, since the highlands produce much of Vietnam's crop, and cafes are on every corner. The climate is milder than the coast, with a rainy season from May to October, and mornings can be misty and cool. Take care on the road, where trucks, motorbikes and buffalo share the way, and avoid riding at night. A walk along the river at dusk is a fine way to finish.