Kolsai Lakes are three alpine lakes strung out in a valley of the Kungey Alatau range, in the far south-east of Kazakhstan, close to the Kyrgyz border. The first lies at around 1,800 metres, and the second, reached by a longer walk, at about 2,250, with a third higher still in the mountains. The water is a deep, cold turquoise, held between steep slopes of dark spruce, and the reflections of the forest and the sky in the still surface make a memorable sight. The lakes were formed by landslides that blocked the valley, long ago.
The forests of Tien Shan spruce around them are home to deer, lynx and, rarely, brown bears, and the lakes are stocked with trout. A national park protects the area. Visitors come to walk, ride horses and camp, and the valley is much quieter than it might be, with only a handful of guesthouses and yurt camps near the first lake. At night, the stars are brilliant, and the air is thin and cold. Even in summer, the temperature can drop close to freezing, so bring warm clothing.
The road to the lakes passes through the village of Saty, where families rent rooms and offer homemade food, and then climbs to a car park by the first lake. The surface is a mixture of tarmac and rough track, with loose stones, potholes and sometimes mud, and heavy rain can make it difficult. The best season is from June to September, when the snow has melted. In winter, the road is often blocked by snow.
Fuel stations are scarce in this region. Tyup, across the border in Kyrgyzstan, is the nearest town noted here, but crossing the border requires the proper papers, and on the Kazakh side the town of Kegen is the more usual choice. Fill your tank before you leave, carry a spare can if you can, and bring food and water.
The Charyn Canyon, a long day's ride to the north-west, is the other great sight of this route, and offers a contrast in colour and drama.