Kokelv is a hamlet on the shore of the Kvalsund, in Finnmark, and it is where the road to Havøysund begins its journey north to the Barents Sea. At nearly seventy-one degrees north, this is deep in the Arctic, and the landscape is open and treeless, with low hills, rocky shores and a sky that dominates everything. Hammerfest, the northernmost town in the world of any size, is about thirty-six kilometres away, and Rypefjord, the smaller port, is nearly the same distance, so fuel and supplies come from there. Kokelv has only a few buildings and a small harbour.
Finnmark is the home of the Sami, the indigenous people of northern Scandinavia, and reindeer herding is still a living tradition. In spring and summer, herds move toward the coast to graze, and in autumn they return inland, and on the roads you will often see reindeer standing in the verge or crossing without hurry. Slow down and give them room, because collisions are common. The Sami language is heard here, and place names appear in both Norwegian and Sami on signs.
The road north follows the coast and crosses a landscape of bare rock, bogs and low scrub. It is narrow and mostly well surfaced, with long straight sections and occasional bends. Wind is a major factor: in Finnmark, storms can be strong and cold, and gusts can push a bike across the lane. Weather changes quickly, and fog can roll in from the sea. In winter, the road can close, and in the shoulder seasons, ice is possible in the early morning. Summer, from June to August, is the main season, with the midnight sun shining from mid-May to late July.
Be self-sufficient. There are very few services between Kokelv and Havøysund, and the distances feel greater than they look on a map. Fill the tank in Hammerfest, carry water and a warm layer, and check the opening hours of any ferry or tunnel. The air here is clean and cold, with a smell of salt and peat, and the open view can be strangely calming. At night in summer, the sun skims the horizon, and the colours of the sea turn soft pink and gold.