Kochkor is a flat, windy, high-valley town at roughly eighteen hundred metres in Kyrgyzstan's Naryn region, and it is where riders turn from the pavement to the dirt. It sits in a broad valley between the Kyrgyz Ala-Too and the Kyoktu range, with sheep and horses in the fields around it and the long line of the mountains marked by snow in all but the hottest months. About two hundred kilometres from Bishkek, it is the usual gateway to Song-Kol, a high alpine lake at over three thousand metres where herders bring their flocks in summer.
The town is known for its felt. Women's cooperatives here make shyrdak and ala-kiyiz, the colourful felt carpets that cover the floors of yurts, using techniques that go back centuries, and a visit to a workshop is a good way to understand how closely the culture is tied to the animals. The wool is washed, dyed, rolled and pressed by hand, and the designs, spirals, horns and tree-like patterns, have meanings. A community tourism office in the town arranges homestays and rides.
The road from Bishkek is the pleasure of the journey. It follows the Chu River through the Boom Gorge, a narrow canyon with red rock walls, and then crosses the plateau past the western end of Lake Issyk-Kul, a huge blue lake ringed by snowy mountains. The pavement is generally decent, though trucks and rough patches are common, and cattle and horses wander across without warning. Weather can change quickly, and in spring and autumn snow can fall even on the lower passes. The Song-Kol road, beyond Kochkor, is gravel, steep and closed by snow outside the summer months, so check conditions with local guides before you go.
Kochkor has fuel and basic shops, and it is the last reliable place to fill before the mountains. Carry spare fuel for the high tracks, along with warm layers and food. Try the traditional bread, baked in a clay oven, and a bowl of fermented mare's milk if you are curious. Summer is the best season, with long evenings and wildflowers on the high pastures.