Korea has a remarkable concentration of the world's dolmens, and Gochang, on the southwest coast, has the largest cluster of all. Hundreds of these megalithic tombs are scattered along the foot of a range of low hills, some standing like tables on stone legs, others with a massive capstone resting almost directly on the ground. They were built during the Bronze Age by the people who farmed these lands, as tombs for the elite or as markers of territory and ritual. Together with the dolmen sites at Hwasun and on Ganghwa Island, they were listed by UNESCO in 2000.
A path winds through the dolmen park, and you can walk among the stones, some of them weighing many tonnes. There is a museum explaining how they were built: the stones were quarried from the hillside, moved on rollers and raised with earth ramps. The setting is peaceful, with fields, hills and the occasional heron. In autumn the area fills with flowering silver grass and bright fields of colour.
Gochang has other treasures. Its old town is surrounded by a walled fortress, Moyang, built in the fifteenth century, and there is a tradition of women walking around the walls carrying stones on their heads to ensure health and good fortune. The nearby temple of Seonunsa, in the hills, is famous for its camellias in spring and its autumn colours. The coastal tidal flats near Gochang are part of the UNESCO site of the Getbol, Korean Tidal Flats, listed in 2021, a vital habitat for migratory birds.
The riding is pleasant, on quiet rural roads through rice paddies, hills and small villages, with gentle bends and little traffic. The coast road offers views of the tidal flats and the Yellow Sea. Korean roads are generally in good condition, but watch for farm vehicles, scooters and sudden stops. Remember that motorcycles are banned from expressways.
Gochang has fuel, shops and restaurants. The area is famous for its freshwater eel, grilled and served with a sweet sauce, and for bokbunja, a wine made from black raspberries. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer is hot and humid, with the monsoon in July. Take your time walking among the stones, and imagine the effort it took to raise them.