Hveravellir is a geothermal field in the middle of Iceland, a small patch of boiling springs, steaming vents and mineral crusts in the heart of a vast, cold desert. It lies about halfway along the Kjölur road, in a hollow between Langjökull and Hofsjökull, and arriving here after hours of gravel feels like finding a lit window in a dark house. The ground steams, the pools are turquoise and green and orange, and the smell of sulphur drifts across the plain.
The ride here is demanding but rewarding. The Kjölur track is gravel all the way, with washboard sections, loose stones and the occasional deep patch of sand, and wind that can knock a bike sideways. Allow plenty of time and keep your speed down, particularly on the corners, where loose gravel gathers. The road is open only in summer, usually from June to September, and weather can change fast, with snow possible even in July.
There is a human story here, too. In the eighteenth century an outlaw named Eyvindur and his wife Halla are said to have lived at Hveravellir, hiding from the authorities after he was convicted of theft. They survived the winters by using the hot springs for cooking and warmth, and the ruins of their little shelter, built from stones and turf, can still be seen near the springs. They became folk heroes, and Halla was reportedly a fierce and resourceful woman, who gave birth to a child here, in the middle of nowhere.
The nature is surreal. The field contains a wide variety of hot springs, with colours caused by minerals and microbes, and a small natural pool where you can bathe if you like, when the temperature is right. The surrounding land is a mix of lava, sand and moss, with no trees for hundreds of kilometres. The silence is profound.
A hut and a simple campsite serve walkers and riders in summer, and a warden is often present, but do not expect more than basic facilities. Bring warm clothing, and take care near the springs, where the ground can be thin and the water scalding.