Kisoro sits in the far south-west corner of Uganda, in a pocket between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and the first thing you notice is the row of volcanoes. Muhabura, Gahinga and Sabinyo stand on the skyline like a set of upturned bowls, their slopes green and their summits often hidden in cloud. They are part of the Virunga range, a chain of volcanoes that straddles three countries, and the town sits at the foot of them, on a high plateau where the air is cool and the land is cultivated to the last metre.
It is a town built on borders. The frontiers with both neighbours are close, so the market is a mixing place where traders from three countries sell produce, clothing and everything else, and the language you hear shifts between Rukiga, Kinyarwanda and Swahili. Gorilla tourism has also shaped the area, because Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, a short way up the road, protects part of the Virunga forest, home to mountain gorillas and the rare golden monkeys. Visitors arrive here to track them, and the town has grown guesthouses, craft shops and cafés around that trade.
The ride from Kabale is a highlight of southern Uganda. The road climbs through terraced hills, over the Kanaba Gap, where a viewpoint looks out across the volcanoes, and descends through patches of forest and fields, with a smooth tarmac surface for most of the way. Traffic is light, but trucks, minibuses, bicycles and cattle share the road, and the bends can be sharp, so watch for blind corners. Mist and rain are common, particularly in the wet seasons, and temperatures can be surprisingly cold, so bring a warm layer and waterproofs. The best months are the dry seasons from June to August and December to February.
Kisoro has petrol stations, shops, banks and a good selection of simple restaurants, and it is the last proper stop before the national park. Local food includes potatoes, beans, matoke and grilled meat, along with strong sweet tea. The volcanoes are the real pleasure, and a clear morning, when they stand sharp against the sky, can make the whole journey feel worthwhile.
If you are heading to the park or the border, make sure you have your documents ready, and give yourself time, because the area runs at its own pace.