Kirillov is a quiet town of about seven thousand people in the Vologda region, and its whole reason for existing is the monastery that rises beside the lake. The Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery, founded in 1397 by a monk named Kirill, grew over the following centuries into one of the largest and richest in Russia, with massive walls and a ring of towers enclosing a whole collection of churches, bell towers and cells on the shore of Lake Siverskoye. In the medieval period, it was a fortress as well as a place of prayer, and tsars including Ivan the Terrible visited and sent people there in disgrace.
Inside the walls, the monastery has the atmosphere of a small walled city, with the white stone of the Assumption Cathedral shining against the dark water and sky. Today it is mainly a museum, with a famous collection of icons and old manuscripts, and some monastic life has returned. Walking along the ramparts gives a view over the lake and the gentle, wooded countryside, where mist often rises in the early morning. It is a quiet place, with few crowds outside the main summer season.
The surrounding land is flat and wet, with forest, bog, small rivers and big lakes, part of the region the Russians call the Russian North. The road from Vologda passes through villages with wooden houses, carved window frames and painted shutters, some of them in poor repair and some well kept. Ferapontovo, about twenty kilometres away, has another monastery with frescoes painted by the master Dionisy in 1502, a UNESCO site and among the finest surviving works of medieval Russian art. The colours, soft blues, ochres and greens, are still clear.
The riding is easy and unhurried, on narrow roads with moderate traffic, long straights and gentle bends. The surface can be rough, especially away from the main route, with patches and potholes that appear suddenly, and spring thaw makes it worse. Distances are long and the countryside is empty, so allow plenty of time. Summer evenings are very long, with a pale light that lasts until late, while in winter the roads are covered in snow and ice.
Kirillov has a few fuel stations and shops, and small cafes serving soup, pancakes and fish from the lakes. Goritsy and Kuzino, nearby villages, have fewer services, so top up in town before exploring. The monastery grounds have a small entrance fee, and the best light for photographs is in the late afternoon.