Kintamani sits on the rim of an enormous volcanic caldera, at around fifteen hundred metres, and the air is noticeably cooler than on the coast. The caldera is about ten kilometres across, a vast bowl formed by massive eruptions in prehistoric times, and inside it stand the cone of Mount Batur, still active, and the crescent-shaped Lake Batur, dark blue under the cliffs. The view from the rim at Penelokan, which means a place to look, is one of the great sights of Bali, and on a clear morning it is spectacular.
The town and its surroundings are known for coffee and oranges, grown on the fertile volcanic slopes, and for the Kintamani dog, a fluffy, intelligent breed that originated in the highlands and is now recognised as Bali's own. The Balinese Hindu villages of the region keep ancient traditions, and the nearby village of Trunyan, on the lake, is known for its unusual burial customs, in which the dead are laid out under a tree rather than cremated. Kintamani is also home to temples, such as Pura Ulun Danu Batur, dedicated to the goddess of the lake and the source of water for much of Bali's irrigation.
The ride up from Ubud is a long climb through villages, rice fields and forest, with the air cooling and the road rising gradually. The road is generally good, but narrow, with sharp bends and a lot of traffic, including slow trucks and tour buses, and the road at the crater rim can be busy and slippery in the rain. Mist and cloud are common in the afternoon, so the morning is the best time to enjoy the view. The dry season, from April to October, is the most reliable. A jacket is sensible, because the temperature can fall to around fifteen degrees in the early morning.
Along the rim, restaurants with terraces serve buffet lunches with a view, though prices are higher than in the lowlands, and street sellers are persistent. Politeness and a firm no are the best response. Local coffee is excellent, and a cup with a view is a good way to pause.
Fuel stations are available in Kintamani and in the larger towns on the route. Ubud, about thirty kilometres away, is the largest centre for services. Carry cash, and allow plenty of time, since distances on Bali take longer than expected.