Kinsarvik is a quiet village on the east shore of the Sørfjord, a branch of the Hardangerfjord, and what matters about it is its position, between the fjord and the mountains, at the foot of a valley that leads to the plateau. A small stone church stands here that dates from the twelfth century, one of the oldest in Norway, and a visitor can still walk in and feel the age of the walls. The village used to be a trading post and a meeting point, and the stone church is a clue to how important it was. Rich farmers and the church once ruled this coast, and this is one of the places where you can feel it.
Behind the village a path climbs through Husedalen, a valley with four waterfalls in a row, a fine walk for those with time and strong legs. It starts a short distance from the centre, and takes a few hours to do properly. The falls are fed by snowmelt and rain, and in spring they are loud and white. If you don't want to walk, the view of the valley mouth from the road is enough.
The roads around Kinsarvik are among the best for a motorbike in the region. The Rv13 runs along the fjord's shore in long, easy bends, between steep slopes with orchards and old farms, with tunnels where the cliff comes down to the water. The surface is generally good. Traffic can be heavy in summer, with tourist buses, and the tunnels are long and often wet, so use your lights and watch for water on the road. The scenery changes from one hour to the next, with the light on the fjord reflecting in the surface and the snow of the Folgefonna glacier visible on clear days.
This is also fruit country, with apples, cherries and plums growing on the slopes. Cider and juice are made and sold locally, and you will find small stalls and farm shops in the season. A ferry crosses the fjord from Kinsarvik to Utne, a nice break in the ride, and a good way to see the water from below. Kinsarvik has a few shops, a pump and a café, and a bigger choice can be found in Odda, to the south, or in Voss, a long way to the north. Check ferry times, and fill the tank before you leave.