The Kinokawa is the main river of Wakayama, rising in the mountains of Nara and flowing west across a broad, fertile plain to the sea at Wakayama city. The valley is a fruit basket: orchards of mikan oranges, persimmons, peaches, and plums cover the terraces, and in autumn, the roadside stalls sell sacks of fruit for a few hundred yen. The air smells of citrus in November, and the colours of the orchard slopes are the most striking thing about the landscape.
Near Iwade, a short distance from the river, stands Negoro-ji, a large temple complex that was once one of the most powerful in Japan. In the sixteenth century, thousands of monk-soldiers lived here, armed with muskets, and the temple was a political and military force until the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi burned most of it in 1585. A few buildings survived, including a great two-storey pagoda, a national treasure, and the complex now lies quiet among old trees, a place of moss, fallen leaves, and a peaceful kind of grandeur.
For a rider, the area is easy and rewarding. The roads along the river and through the orchards are gentle, with a good surface and plenty of small towns, and the traffic is light outside the commuter hours. The Kinokawa valley is also the route to the mountains of Kōya, so it is a natural place to gather yourself before the climb. Take care at the many small crossroads, where cars appear without much warning, and remember that traffic in Japan drives on the left.
Food is a delight. Wakayama is the home of a particular style of ramen, with a rich pork bone and soy broth, often served with pickled mackerel sushi on the side, and it is hard to find a bad bowl. Iwade has fuel, convenience stores, and restaurants, and Izumisano, farther west, is a much larger city. Look for farm stands selling fresh fruit and juice, and consider a small bag of mikan as a snack for the ride. Autumn is the best season for the harvest, and spring for the blossom, while summer can be hot and humid.