Highway 180 east of Grant Grove does something rare: it goes down. After the sequoias and the climb through the high forest, the road begins to descend into the canyon of the Kings River, and at a series of overlooks above the gorge you can see how steep the descent will be. The canyon is among the deepest in North America, plunging from ridge crests over three thousand metres to a valley floor less than half that height, and the walls are cliffs of granite, streaked with water stains and dotted with pines.
The road down is an engineering effort, shelved into the canyon wall with tight bends, guard walls and a drop beside you. It is a joy to ride, as the bends are wide enough and the surface is good, but the exposure is real and the descent is long, so use engine braking and keep to your side. The views change at every corner, from the white spray of waterfalls in spring to the glinting river at the bottom. At the end, the road reaches Cedar Grove, a quiet valley with meadows and a campground, and finally stops at a place called Road's End, where the trails begin. In the early morning, mist fills the valley and the light spills slowly down the cliffs.
The glaciers that carved the canyon are long gone, but their work is visible in the polished granite, the U-shaped sections and the hanging valleys. John Muir visited and compared the place with Yosemite, and some people prefer this one precisely because it is quieter. Black bears live in the area and are used to people, which means campers must store food carefully. Mule deer graze along the road in the evening.
The road beyond Grant Grove is closed in winter, generally from about November to April, because of snow and rockfall, so check conditions. In summer it is hot in the bottom of the canyon and the temperature difference between rim and floor can be thirty degrees. Fill up in the foothills before you start, and carry water. If you are returning the same way, remember the climb back is steady and demands a bit more throttle.