Mount Kinabalu stands 4,095 metres above the north of Borneo, and it dominates the landscape from every angle, a huge granite dome that appears and disappears in cloud. The park at its foot, Kinabalu Park, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the richest places for plants on earth, with thousands of species, including orchids, rhododendrons and pitcher plants. The park headquarters sits at about 1,500 metres, so the air is cool and often damp, and the forest around is moss-covered and dripping. The nearest towns are Ranau, about eighteen kilometres east, and Kota Belud, further to the west, so fuel and supplies should be taken there.
The ride along the Kundasang road is a lovely, cool contrast to the heat of the coast near Kota Kinabalu. The road climbs through forest and farmland, with vegetable terraces, tea and flower farms, and fog drifting across the slopes. Curves are steady and mostly smooth, with some patches of wear, and the weather changes quickly. Rain is possible at any time of year, so carry waterproofs, and be careful of wet tarmac and fallen leaves. Local drivers are quick on the straight sections, and trucks carrying vegetables crawl on the hills.
The mountain is sacred to the local Kadazan-Dusun people, who believe that the spirits of the dead rest on its summit. Its name may derive from Aki Nabalu, the revered place of the dead, though the etymology is debated. Climbers must be accompanied by licensed guides and book in advance, and the ascent takes two days, with a night at a hut near the top and a pre-dawn push for sunrise on the granite plateau. Even without climbing, the park has good trails through the forest, and a botanical garden.
Nearby, the Kundasang war memorial recalls the Sandakan death marches of 1945, when thousands of Allied prisoners died. Ranau has hot springs at Poring, and the Rafflesia, the giant parasitic flower, blooms in the area at irregular times. For food, try local vegetables, wild ferns, and strong Sabah tea or coffee. Take a jacket, because evenings are cold. Mornings are clearest, so enjoy the view of the summit before the clouds close in.