Kihelkonna lies on the west side of Saaremaa, where the island begins to dissolve into a scatter of peninsulas, reefs and low islands. It is a small village with a stone church, a school and a few shops, and its main importance is as a gateway to Vilsandi National Park, a protected area of coast, islets and shallow sea that is among the best places in the Baltic for birds. In spring and autumn, huge flocks of geese, ducks and waders gather here on their way between Siberia and the north Atlantic, and in summer the islands are covered with nesting terns and gulls.
The land is low and flat, with a lot of juniper, reed and open meadow, and the coast is rimmed with boulders, pebble beaches and shallow bays. The sea freezes in some winters, and the ice pushes up into ridges that last long into the spring. A narrow, sandy neck of land called Harilaid reaches out to the north, with a lighthouse at the end, and it is a favoured spot for walkers and bird watchers. The whole area has a stark, open beauty that is very different from the lush Estonian mainland.
For riders, the roads around Kihelkonna are quiet and easy, with long straight stretches, a few gentle bends and a surface that is mostly sealed, with gravel on some of the smaller coastal routes. The wind is the main character, blowing steadily from the Baltic and making the bike feel lively on open stretches. Traffic is light, and you are as likely to meet a tractor as a car. It is a good ride to take slowly, with stops to look at the sea, the windmills and the farms with their thatched roofs.
The nearest town of any size is Kuressaare, about thirty-one kilometres away, with petrol stations, supermarkets and restaurants, so start with a full tank. In the village, you may find a café or a small shop, but hours are limited. Local specialities include smoked fish, rye bread and the island's own beer, and farm stays often serve a hearty breakfast.
The light here has a luminous, washed quality, particularly in the evenings, when the sea turns silver.