Khvalynsk is a small Volga town built on chalk, and the chalk is what makes it special. The hills that rise behind the town are pale, soft limestone from the Cretaceous, and on their slopes grow some of the strangest pines in Russia: chalk pines, a local variety of Scots pine that has adapted to the dry, mineral-rich soil, with a twisted, relict character. They are protected in the Khvalynsk National Park, which covers ridges and ravines above the river and holds a mixture of forest, steppe and rare plants.
The name has a deeper echo. Geologists call the ancient Caspian, which spread far up the Volga valley during the last Ice Age, the Khvalynian Sea, after the town. Traces of its old shorelines can be found in the hills, and the flat, silty land between the river and the ridges is partly its floor. Today the Volga is a long, wide reservoir here, with sandy beaches and a promenade, and the town has the air of a modest holiday resort, with sanatoriums, small hotels and cafés. The apples of Khvalynsk have a reputation, and in late summer you will see them in baskets by the roadside.
Riding here is gentle and pleasant, a break from the flat plains of the lower Volga. The road along the right bank runs between orchards and low hills, with views over the water, and the side roads climb to villages tucked into the ravines. Surfaces are patchy, with frost heave and occasional gravel, so keep your speed reasonable. Traffic is light, apart from weekend sightseers in July and August. The climate is dry and hot in summer, and the steppe smells of wormwood and sun-baked earth. Spring is lovely, with tulips and wild flowers on the slopes, and early autumn gives long golden light.
Fuel and food are easy, since the town is large enough for stations and shops, with several cafés serving fish from the Volga and the usual soups and dumplings. Dukhovnitskoye, a few kilometres away, is a larger neighbour if you need more. Check your bike before heading into the hills, as there are few services in the villages.
Climb up to a viewpoint at the end of the day, and watch the sun go down over the river.