Pak Kret is a town of potters. North of Bangkok, on the Chao Phraya, the red-brown clay of the riverbank has been fired into earthenware here since the Mon people settled the area in the eighteenth century, and the tradition continues on a small island called Koh Kret, reached by a short ferry. Walking the narrow concrete lanes around the island with the sound of kilns and the sight of rows of terracotta pots drying in the sun is a good reason to come.
The neighbouring province of Nonthaburi has another claim to fame, its durians, which are prized across Thailand. In the season, from April to June, roadside stalls sell the fruit in heaps, and the smell hangs in the warm air. The Chao Phraya here is wide and brown, busy with tugs, barges and long-tail boats, and the banks are lined with temples and old wooden houses.
For a rider, the roads in this area are mostly urban and slow. Chaeng Watthana and Tiwanon roads carry heavy traffic, and the combination of motorbikes, vans, buses and pedestrians requires constant attention. Some of the quieter lanes beside canals are more pleasant, with temples and market stalls to pass, but they can be narrow and potholed. Floods in the rainy season are common, and dusk brings clouds of mosquitoes. Early mornings, before the heat and commuter jams, are cooler and calmer. Parking for bikes is easy near the ferry pier.
Practically, everything is available. Fuel stations are along every main road, shopping malls sell supplies and spares, and there are food courts and street stalls serving noodles, grilled meat and sweet snacks. The ferry to Koh Kret is cheap and runs frequently, and bikes are usually carried at a small charge, though the island is best explored on foot or by hired bicycle. Bring cash, because small vendors rarely take cards. Weekends bring crowds from the city, so visit on a weekday if possible. The real Khao Yai lies far to the north-east, but this stop is an easy and rewarding contrast.