Kezenoyam is the largest lake in the North Caucasus, a broad, deep, blue-green sheet of water lying at about 1,870 metres on the border between Chechnya and Dagestan. It fills a mountain basin, surrounded by steep, forested ridges and high meadows, and the peaks above it, some topped with snow into early summer, give the lake an Alpine feel. The shoreline is mostly rocky, with pines and birches, and clear water that reflects the changing sky. In the early morning, mist hangs over the surface, and in the evening, the lake turns a deep, steely blue.
The lake is famed for its fish, particularly trout, and for local legends, which speak of hidden treasure and mysterious creatures in the depths. Such stories are the stuff of Caucasus folklore, and they enliven a place that has few other sources of drama. The surrounding region is the home of the Chechens and the Andi people of Dagestan, who live in mountain villages of stone houses and towers, some of them centuries old, perched on ridges above the valley. Their customs include a deep respect for guests, a love of horses, and strong traditions of music and dance.
The region has a difficult recent history, and it is administratively sensitive. The area lies near the Dagestan border, and checkpoints are common on the roads, so carry your documents and expect to be asked where you are going. Local people are usually friendly to visitors who show respect.
The road to the lake climbs from the valley in long, steep stretches, with many bends and good views, and the surface has improved in recent years, though it is still patchy in places, with gravel, potholes and washouts. In summer, fog is common, and the weather can turn cold and wet in minutes, so pack a waterproof layer and warm clothes. Snow can block the road from October to May, and the best months are June to September. Traffic is light, mostly local vehicles and tourist minibuses.
Fuel and supplies are limited in the mountains. Andi, about nine kilometres away on the Dagestan side, has basic shops, and bigger towns lie further down the valleys, so fill up before you climb. Sit at the shore for a while, and watch the light on the water. In the stillness, it is easy to understand why people tell stories about this lake.