The name on the map is bureaucratic, but the place is anything but. Key Planning Decision is a translation of the Dutch legal designation used to protect the Wadden Sea, and the spot here sits on the coast near Delfzijl, at the eastern edge of the province of Groningen, where the Dutch Wadden meets the estuary of the Ems. The Wadden Sea is the largest unbroken system of tidal flats in the world, stretching along the coasts of the Netherlands, Germany and Denmark, and it was listed by UNESCO in 2009.
Twice a day, the tide goes out and exposes vast expanses of mud and sand, crossed by channels and gullies, teeming with worms, shellfish and crabs. Millions of migratory birds stop here to feed on their way between the Arctic and Africa, and seals rest on the sandbanks. At low tide, guided groups go mudflat walking, wadlopen, across the flats to the islands, an adventure that requires an expert guide, as the tides and channels can be dangerous. The tradition is particularly strong along the Groningen coast.
Delfzijl is a port town, with a harbour, industry and a seawall along the waterfront. The area around it is flat and green, with farmland, canals and villages built on terps, artificial mounds raised over centuries to protect people from floods before the dikes were built. Groningen province has also been in the news because of earthquakes caused by decades of natural gas extraction, which have damaged many houses and led to a decision to end production.
The riding here is flat and windswept. The roads run along the dikes and across the polders, straight and open, with views over the sea and the fields. The wind is a constant companion, often strong and gusty, blowing in from the sea with nothing to stop it. Cyclists are everywhere, and Dutch drivers expect you to respect them. Traffic is light outside the towns. It is not exciting riding, but there is a beauty in the vast skies, the light and the space.
Delfzijl has fuel, shops and restaurants. Try fresh fish, or a portion of kibbeling, battered fish pieces, from a stall. The weather is changeable, with rain, wind and grey skies common. Bring warm, waterproof clothing, even in summer.