The Festetics Palace, built in the eighteenth century by the Festetics family, has a famous library and a large park, and the town has a long academic tradition. The Georgikon, founded in 1797, is said to be the first agricultural college in Europe.
The ride starts here and runs along the north shore, a land of volcanic hills, vineyards and small villages. The lake is shallow, with an average depth of about three metres, and it warms quickly in summer, which makes it popular with swimmers and sailors. The roads along the shore are generally flat, with gentle bends and long views over the water, but the hills rise inland, and the roads there are steeper and twistier. Traffic can be heavy in July and August, especially at weekends, so early starts are wise. In spring and autumn, the shore is quiet and the light is soft.
Nearby, Hévíz has the largest thermal lake in Europe, where visitors bathe in warm water, even in winter, among water lilies. The north shore wine region has a strong reputation, with Badacsony's basalt hills producing white wines from Olaszrizling and the rare Kéknyelű grape. The volcanic cones, with their vertical columns of basalt, stand above the lake like small mountains, and a climb to the top gives a wide view.
Fuel and food are easy in Keszthely, with stations, supermarkets and many restaurants, and the town centre has a pleasant pedestrian street. Local fish, like pike-perch from the lake, are served in many restaurants, and a glass of local wine goes well with it.
Take a stroll on the lakeside promenade before leaving, and watch the light on the water. It is a gentle start to a long day.