Kenmare is the tidy, well-fed town at the head of the bay of the same name, in the south-west corner of County Kerry, and it is one of those places where a stop for lunch tends to turn into an afternoon. The streets are laid out in the shape of an X, with colourful shopfronts, flower baskets, and a surprising density of good cafes and restaurants for a town of this size. Mountains rise to the north and south, and the broad estuary of the Kenmare River stretches away to the west.
The town sits between two of Ireland's famous peninsulas, the Iveragh, with its Ring of Kerry, and the Beara, wilder and emptier. Kenmare is the natural base for both, and riders arrive from Killarney over the high road through the Moll's Gap, a fine climb with views over the mountains. There is also a prehistoric stone circle on the edge of town, one of the largest in the south-west of Ireland, with a boulder in the centre and a quiet, slightly eerie atmosphere. Kenmare is also known for its lace, which was made by nuns in the nineteenth century as a way of giving local women work.
For a motorcyclist, Kenmare is a fine place to rest and refuel. The town has pumps, shops, and plenty of places to eat, from pubs serving seafood chowder and brown bread to more ambitious restaurants. Fresh fish and shellfish from the bay are a highlight, and the local cheeses and lamb are excellent. The roads out of town are good, though the Ring of Kerry in summer can be crowded with coaches, and the narrow bends and blind corners need care. The Healy Pass on the Beara side is a spectacular alternative, with tight hairpins and a rougher surface.
Weather in Kerry is changeable, and rain can arrive at any moment, so carry a waterproof layer and expect a mix of sun and showers in a single afternoon. Spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with fewer crowds and clear light, while summer brings long evenings but more traffic. Cill Airne, the Irish name for Killarney, is the bigger town about twenty kilometres to the north-east. Kenmare itself has all you need, and the pace of life is unhurried.