Kemer is a modern resort built on an old pine coast, and what makes it worth knowing is the mountain behind it. A few decades ago it was little more than a fishing village at the foot of the Beydağları range, but tourism has turned it into a lively town of seventeen thousand people with a long pebble beach, a busy marina and hotels from one end of the bay to the other. The setting is spectacular, though, with the dark, steep slopes of the Taurus coming down almost to the water and clouds sitting on the summit of Tahtalı, which at 2,365 metres towers above the town. A cable car climbs to the top of it, and in clear weather you can see across the gulf of Antalya.
The coast road, the D400, runs south from Antalya along the foot of the mountains, and the stretch to Kemer is a pleasant ride, with a smooth surface, open curves and views of the sea. South of Kemer it becomes quieter and more dramatic, running through pine forest and past old harbours and bays. It is at its best in the early morning, before the resort traffic builds, and in spring and autumn, when the heat is mild. In summer, expect traffic jams near the town and a fierce midday sun.
A short way south lie the ruins of Phaselis, an ancient port with three harbours, built among pines beside the sea. It was a Greek colony, later a Lycian and Roman town, and you can wander among its aqueduct, theatre and paved streets, with the water lapping against old stone quays. It is one of the most atmospheric ancient sites on the coast, partly because of the setting, partly because the crowds are modest. Further south still, at Çıralı, natural flames burn out of the rocks of the Chimaera, a phenomenon that has been burning for thousands of years.
Kemer has fuel, supermarkets, a lively seafront and every sort of restaurant. Göynük, a few kilometres to the south, has a pretty canyon and a quieter atmosphere. If you want to swim, the beaches are mostly pebble, and the water is clear and cool. Take sun protection, and drink plenty of water. In autumn the sea is at its warmest, and the roads are at their most enjoyable.