Kella is another small name on the plateau south-west of the capital, and its interest lies in what you pass on the way. The old road leads out of Addis Ababa through Sebeta, a town that grew around a railway and market, and beyond it climbs gently into high farmland, with slopes of green and tan, groves of eucalyptus and, in the distance, the shape of the mountains that rim the Rift. At this latitude and height the sun is strong, but the air is cool, and the clarity of the light is memorable.
Many of the villages in this region have a church or two, often round, with a thatched or tin roof and painted walls inside, belonging to the Ethiopian Orthodox tradition, one of the oldest Christian churches in the world. On Sundays and saints' days the paths fill with worshippers dressed in white, with white cotton shawls called netela, and the sound of chanting and drumming drifts across the fields. If you encounter such a gathering, slow down, keep your distance and be respectful; photographing people at worship without permission is not appreciated.
The riding is a contrast of terrain. The tarmac sections are usually decent, with long, easy curves over rolling hills, while side roads turn to dirt and stones. Rain, from June to September, can wash out sections of track and make steep descents hazardous. Early morning is the best time, with light traffic and lovely visibility. The locals will often wave, and children may run beside the bike calling out, a friendly custom that is easy to enjoy but needs care because they can dart into the road.
There are few services here. The nearest town of any size is Sebeta, with Addis Ababa farther along, and fuel is scarce on the rural roads, so plan carefully and fill the tank before you leave. A small shop may sell bottled water, biscuits and soft drinks. You will smell woodsmoke, damp earth and the sweet, peppery aroma of roasting coffee, a scent that tells you you are in the country where coffee began. Take a moment to enjoy the sheer scale of the landscape, with the ridges stacking up into the haze.