Kegon Falls drops ninety-seven metres from the edge of Lake Chuzenji into a rocky gorge, and it is counted among the three great waterfalls of Japan. The lake's outflow, the Daiya river, simply runs to the lip of an ancient lava flow and falls straight down, creating a white column in a dark basin of volcanic rock. Around the main fall, smaller streams seep from the cliff face, and in winter some of them freeze into long icicles, a magnificent sight if you can bear the cold.
An elevator carries visitors down inside the rock to a viewing platform at the base, where the roar of water is deafening and the spray soaks anyone who stands too close. A free viewing platform higher up gives a more distant but still spectacular view. After heavy rain, the volume increases and the water turns brown, and on a sunny afternoon, rainbows form in the mist. Early morning is quieter and the light softer, and in autumn the surrounding maple forest turns bright red.
The waterfall sits at the top of the Irohazaka, so riders who have just come up the forty-eight bends often stop here first. A cable car, the Akechidaira ropeway, runs to a viewpoint on a nearby ridge, with an overview of both the lake and the fall, and it is a good choice if you have time. A short distance north, the Senjogahara marsh and the Ryuzu falls are further stops in a beautiful area, and the hot spring village of Yumoto lies at the far end.
The place is tourist-heavy, so expect souvenir shops, ice cream stands and noodle restaurants near the viewing area, which cater to tour groups arriving by the busload. Prices are higher than in the valley, but the food is acceptable. Parking for motorbikes is available, and there is a charge at some lots. It is best to fill up there. On a cold day, a hot drink from a vending machine, which comes in a can and warms the hands, is a small pleasure, and a good use of the time.